The targets
- Room air: below 60% relative humidity, sustained.
- Surfaces: below about 80%, which is the actual germination threshold.
- Not below about 40%, because there is no further mould benefit and dry air has its own costs.
The 30–50% band that comfort guidance recommends sits comfortably inside all of that, which is convenient — the range that suits people also suppresses mould and dust mites.
Why duration beats the peak
This is the part that changes what you actually do.
Mould germination needs several continuous hours above the threshold, and visible growth needs that repeated over days or weeks. A single excursion does nothing.
| Bathroom after a shower | Cold north corner | |
|---|---|---|
| Peak surface RH | ~95% | ~85% |
| Duration | 20–30 minutes | 10 hours a night, all winter |
| Repeats | Daily, but always clears | Daily, never clears |
| Mould? | No, if it dries | Yes |
The bathroom has the higher peak by a wide margin and is not the problem. The corner is.
Which reframes prevention: the goal is not holding a number, it is making sure wet surfaces dry again quickly. Air movement does that without changing the room average at all, which is why an extractor fan run for ten minutes after a shower is worth more than a dehumidifier running all day in the hallway.
The two levers, and which to reach for
Same pair as everywhere else in this cluster, because it is the same physics:
Raise the surface temperature. Insulate the cold spot, heat the room, pull the furniture off the wall so air can reach it, open the curtains. This attacks the problem where it actually is.
Lower the dew point of the air. Extract at the source, dry laundry elsewhere, ventilate when the outdoor air is drier, or run a dehumidifier.
For a specific cold corner, the first lever is almost always better — the room is fine and one surface is not. For a generally damp building, the second.
Ventilating: check first
Opening windows only dries a space if the incoming air carries less water than the air it replaces.
In winter that is nearly always true — cold air holds very little water whatever its percentage says, so bringing it in and warming it is powerfully drying.
In a mild, damp spell it can be false. Outdoor air at a 60°F dew point will not dry a thing, and ventilating with it raises the indoor dew point instead.
The outdoor dew point settles it, and it is what this site shows — the half of the comparison most people never have.
Removing what is already there
Lowering the humidity stops growth but does not kill it. Mould goes dormant in dry conditions and resumes when moisture returns, so existing growth has to be physically removed as well as the conditions corrected.
If it keeps coming back after the surface has been dried and kept dry, the moisture is arriving from somewhere else — a leak, a bridged damp course, a failed seal — and that is a building problem rather than a humidity one.
What this site measures
Outdoor air. That tells you whether ventilating will help, and it is genuinely useful. It cannot tell you the humidity at a surface in your building — that needs an instrument against that surface, and no phone has a humidity sensor.